We arrived at the small marina of Pedegral after navigating up a narrow river about 6 miles. Panama is amazing. The cost of living is about 1/3 the price of the states. An average meal costs $1.5-$3 at a local restaurant with a beer running about $0.60. Broken Compass is anchored in the center of an estuary with mangroves for protection at 50 feet on either side. There is an abundance of wildlife including monkeys playing in the nearby trees. Tyler and I are leaving Bret and Nicky to tend to the boat as we take a 7 hour bus ride to the city.
Panama City is fragmented. There are areas with extreme violence where military personel stand on each block corner with automatic weapons. There are also nice areas including a large mall which appears to be imported from the United States. We explored the city, picked up solar panels and won some money at the casino before we returned to find Bret and Nicky had a difficult time as security guards. Bret´s Decription:
¨Nicky and I took Makai to experience Panamanian soil and go for a morning walk. After three hours ashore, we found out the true value of our faithful puppy. She had been deterring the theives that patrol the Pedregal river all day. I returned to see our companionway door ripped open and the boat ransacked. Every drawer was open with clothes and valuables strewn on the floor. The VHF radio was ripped from its mount and in a "to go bag" with bilge pumps and riffe speargun sitting next to the accumulated valuables. Apparently, they left in a hurry because after hours of evaluating damage/theft, we found out the only missing items were our two handheld GPSs and $200 Nicky had in her passport.¨
We were lucky. Bret and Nicky took off for Panama City the following morning and Tyler and I took our shift. While preparing the boat for the long leg to Peru, we almost destroyed our boat and a dock after refueling. While refueling and topping off the water tanks, the tide went out leaving us stuck in the mud. I realized the weight of our craft when one tractor, 2 winches, and three boats carrying 30hp, twin 150hp, and 75hp engines respectively could not pull Broken Compass from the mud. We tied 4 lines from the top of the masts to trees and docks to prevent the boat from leaning. Fighting a rising tide using bumpers, 2X4´s and ply wood, we fended a floating steel dock off all night until BC started floating again.
Bret just returned today with a christmas list of boat supplies from the city. We are sail ready with two new 63 watt solar panels mounted, water, food and diesel. The trip to Peru should take about 20 days with intermediate stops at islands and perhaps Equador along the way. Pray for wind.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Friday, February 5, 2010
Pamama Islands
The 130 mile sail from Bahia Drake to Panama provided light wind in the afternoons and calm seas at night. After hours of carving and painting, Tyler’s creativity paid off and his plug named “Mexican-American” lured a whopping 47 inch Dorado into the boat. The Mexican-American also hooked a Wahoo for breakfast under a full moon.
We completed the last sail repairs underway. We flew the mended Genniker off the port bow until Isla Parida came into view. There are dozens of islands scattered around the gulf, Isla Gamez is just one sample provided below.
Out of fish and in need of food, we grabbed the spears in search of lunch. After two areas with shallow water and small fish, we anchored Firefox next to an exposed rock and three large coral heads. Chad dove the coral heads with a sling and quickly resurfaced to grab the high powered Riffe speargun. I swam over about 15 minute at the end of a battle to see Chad wrestling a mammoth sized fish and Tyler repeatedly stabbing it in the head with his dive knife. Chad’s Pargo (Red Snapper) kill:
Scanning the area, we motored to the only what looked like civilization to find a fisherman with his family of 18. The father skillfully worked the fish as his wife, Rosa, reluctantly prepared a meal for us. Their hospitality far exceeded any expectations. The grandfather took us on a nature walk, the children shared local fruit and played dominoes, and the father talked of fishing and diving. We ate the cooked Pargo for lunch before departing, leaving the rest of the fish to feed their family.
Fish, oysters, and coconut milk make great meals. After meeting an American couple on one of the islands, we traded these delicacies for an exquisite homemade meal, drinks and good company.
We completed the last sail repairs underway. We flew the mended Genniker off the port bow until Isla Parida came into view. There are dozens of islands scattered around the gulf, Isla Gamez is just one sample provided below.
Out of fish and in need of food, we grabbed the spears in search of lunch. After two areas with shallow water and small fish, we anchored Firefox next to an exposed rock and three large coral heads. Chad dove the coral heads with a sling and quickly resurfaced to grab the high powered Riffe speargun. I swam over about 15 minute at the end of a battle to see Chad wrestling a mammoth sized fish and Tyler repeatedly stabbing it in the head with his dive knife. Chad’s Pargo (Red Snapper) kill:
Scanning the area, we motored to the only what looked like civilization to find a fisherman with his family of 18. The father skillfully worked the fish as his wife, Rosa, reluctantly prepared a meal for us. Their hospitality far exceeded any expectations. The grandfather took us on a nature walk, the children shared local fruit and played dominoes, and the father talked of fishing and diving. We ate the cooked Pargo for lunch before departing, leaving the rest of the fish to feed their family.
Fish, oysters, and coconut milk make great meals. After meeting an American couple on one of the islands, we traded these delicacies for an exquisite homemade meal, drinks and good company.
Bahia Drake
Applying our finance degrees, we evaluated the price of diesel in Costa Rica at just over $5 we decided we could save $145 by filling up in Panama at $2.76. We only picked about 20 gallons which forced us to sail the entire way. The shifts were easy with 4 people, a nice change from the 2 man crew down to Costa Rica. With minimal wind, downtime was spend improving neglected areas of the boat, reading, and relaxing.
Bahia Drake boasts good surfing, diving and monkeys. Excited about the new surf boards purchased from a shaper in Jaco, we tested Firefox’s 30hp engine as she pulled each of us up with ease.
Makai even took a turn and she stood up first try (with a little help). Day 2 in Bahia Drake we procured food. We dove off a nearby reef and took 5 decent parrot fish and about a dozen oysters. Tyler concocted a sautéed oyster and pasta dish which has become a staple in our diet. We shared the extra fish with a couple we met the previous evening and concluded the evening with drinks and foosball at a bar overlooking the bay. Makai found her own entertainment as she sited her first monkey. She climbed half way up the tree to get a closer look. The monkeys didn’t take to kindly to this invader and threw branches at the playful puppy as she clung nearly 6 feet off the ground. The wind picked up and we are off to Isla Parida in Panama.
Bahia Drake boasts good surfing, diving and monkeys. Excited about the new surf boards purchased from a shaper in Jaco, we tested Firefox’s 30hp engine as she pulled each of us up with ease.
Makai even took a turn and she stood up first try (with a little help). Day 2 in Bahia Drake we procured food. We dove off a nearby reef and took 5 decent parrot fish and about a dozen oysters. Tyler concocted a sautéed oyster and pasta dish which has become a staple in our diet. We shared the extra fish with a couple we met the previous evening and concluded the evening with drinks and foosball at a bar overlooking the bay. Makai found her own entertainment as she sited her first monkey. She climbed half way up the tree to get a closer look. The monkeys didn’t take to kindly to this invader and threw branches at the playful puppy as she clung nearly 6 feet off the ground. The wind picked up and we are off to Isla Parida in Panama.
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