The Hunt

Our plan was to re-stock on fresh water from a nearby bay and head out. At the freshwater spikit, we were welcomed by two “real” Marquesians. Dressed tattoos with decorated pig tooth necklaces, these hunters became quick friends.
Bret and I joined the warriors on a goat hunt. The roles seemed reversed when they took out their 12 gauge shotgun and we furnished our bow and arrows. Hunting together we were too large a group for the skittish goats. We split up, Marquesians vs. Americans. We stalked a small group, I tactically herded them in Bret’s direction and he took a tough shot at the largest ram. A couple inches high left us dinnerless. Luckily, the Marquesians who were hunting on home turf were more successful and we feasted like kings.
We had beach barbeques for 2 days and nights to celebrate the kill and our newfound friendships.
We learned our hunting buddies where princes of the king who owned nearly half the land. They do not own cars and ride horses all over the island. They are true naturalists and even control resources; exemplified by only killing male goats and leaving females to reproduce. We hiked to a waterfall with Makai, played games, but mostly spent 4 days listening to stories over coffee and campfire.
The Marquesian warriors humorously reminisced how the survivor episode participants nearly starved with so much food in abundance.
We have learned many lessons from our friends and after an exchange of gifts we decided to continue west. Next stop will be challenging, as we anticipate narrow passes with moderate current under sail (the engine needs to be overhauled) and dangerous reefs in the Tumotu atoll of Manihi.
We also finished designing real soft Peruvian cotton T-shirts. So check them out! Purchases can be made through the website at http://www.sailbrokencompass.com/ (because we really need a new engine)

Nuku Hiva Part 2

We entered into the bay and felt like sailors when a rugged old salt from New Zealand deemed us heroes for anchoring under sail. We immediately broke out the fishing gear and took some albacore tuna to share with fellow sailors. Hammerhead sharks have provided quality fishing competition. On one occasion, an eight footer circled in between a tuna and our inflatable boat, hoping to catch an easy dinner off the end of our line. Going head to head, we hooked up with two five footers, which both won effortlessly taking our hooks, 40lb test line, and sinkers. On shore we’ve been playing tennis, volleyball, and soccer. There are two other boats with younger crews, and friendly international challenges happen daily. The locals comprised of 1700 making up the second largest town in French Polynesia are also extremely friendly and athletic. Two days ago, the outboard started acting up. First the fuel injector hose clamp slipped off pumping fuel into the engine head and water. On the third pull, we had ignition. Fire exploded from every orifice extending to surrounding water. Quick moves turned a barbeque into another lesson. Clamped and loaded, we took off for a hike 2 miles ride with a couple of Norwegian friends. Apparently the engine had second thoughts because 1.75 miles off, she kicked off her new propeller. Paddling back, our buddy Topie was stung in the heel by a jellyfish. Stopping to complete the hike, an allergic reaction set in leaving him nearly paralyzed and struggling to speak. We accepted a tow from a nearby Catamaran. Shade, water and rest promoted a rapid recovery. We chalked the day up to one for the books in Captain Murphy’s Law and ended another day in paradise among good friends toasting rum and cokes.
Tomorrow we depart for a 5 day voyage to the island of Manihi in the Tumotus. It is a little off the grid with no internet, but world class surfing, diving and fishing. We plan to arrive in Tahiti for the American independence day.

Nuku Hiva

We just made landfall in Nuku Hiva after crossing the largest body of water on Earth, the Pacific Ocean. The 34 day, 3600 nautical mile voyage seemed but a blink of an eye. We caught a moderate amount of fish with Makai leading the hunting party. She captured countless flying fish, feasting on the delicacy and leaving a pile of heads as trophies in the cockpit. We discovered the value of light on a dark evening. A flashlight is like crack for flying fish and I was hit three times when initiating my headlight one night. During the day we were frequented by light squalls and the Northwest raingear came in handy. Each evening we dined (usually on fish and rice) and enjoyed cocktails to watch the sunset as if nature was playing a movie. It became practice to say, “See you tomorrow” as the sun disappeared beneath the swells. Before night shifts, discussions consisted of politics, economics, personal enlightenment, and the best new trick to teach Makai. Night shifts (we need an autopilot) are a pleasure few have the opportunity to enjoy. The moon and stars quickly become companions and guides. Miles from the ocean floor, thousands from land, and millions from the moon and stars, there is a feeling of remoteness and insignificance. In the 34 days at sea, we saw only 3 fishing boats. Approaching sunrise on June 2nd, Makai rustled and stuck her nose high in the air as if something had changed. The mountains of Nuku Hiva (which gained popularity from the 2002 survivor series) emerged in the distance. After several “Land Ho” announcements we smiled… Paradise.
Nuku Hiva