Sail to Nadi

Continuing to rely solely on the wind, all of our sails take longer than expected. The first few hours down the southern coast were pleasant with following wind and seas. We decided to take a short cut through Beqa passage close to where we went shark diving the previous month. Short cuts typically increase risk. Well, the wind switched then died, leaving us in the middle of the passage. It returned heavy on the nose with rain. Due to our limited navigation equipment coupled with Fiji's reputation for shipwrecks, it was a little unsettling sailing along the coast on a moonless night. The abundance of reef patches and strong currents running through the passage gave the night some flavor.

The next evening we hooked into a tuna. We were a little out of practice. I saw the rod bend and per procedure, screamed, “Fish!!!” Chad flew on deck from a nap, realized it was dark, and bombed down below to retrieve a headlamp. I had left the helm to work the fish and the boat self tacked back over the line, causing it to tangle under the boat. Rigging, sails, solar panels, Firefox, and Makai all posed unique challenges to the procurement of this fish. I pulled it alongside before we remembered our gaffe deficiency. No problem, wire leader... just haul it up when the boat heels over. One... two... wait... three! The fish came aboard surprisingly well with the motion of the boat. A little too well. I stepped aside to watch Chad trip over the cooler while bear hugging a 45 pound yellow fin tuna. As they landed, one of the treble hooks caught Chad's calf, further connecting him to the fish.

I dove below to the tool box and after two unsuccessful attempts with wire cutters and pliers, grabbed the bolt cutters. In all my life, I have never seen a landed fish so calm. Chad sat quietly with him, knowing a crazed tuna would cause a few deep lacerations in his leg. The bolt cutters worked just before the fish began his final flipping fit.

The next morning we positioned ourselves to sail upwind through Navula Passage. We were sailing confidently through with plenty of wind, then a loud cracking noise followed by a splash. The jib sail along with the entire forestay/roller furling system ripped out of the mast and fell in the water. We lashed the sail and hardware alongside as we limped on the mizzen and a double reefed main. Threading breaking waves on either side of the pass added to the excitement. We anchored for the evening in Momi Bay to assess the damage in and devour some yellow fin. The next day, with fairer winds, we continued up to Port Denarau to haul the boat out of the water for some much needed repairs.

Suva

It took us three (more) long weeks to realize Suva is the unlucky side of Fiji. It rained almost every day we were anchored, and if something on the boat wasn't broken, it happened there. Our outboard engine took another 2 week vacation after the starter coil burned out.

The toilet joined the outboard, leaving us scrambling to find specialized parts.

Our engine led us through the fuel system to the injectors to the timing back to the injectors to end ironically with the clutch of our brand new starter breaking due to a manufacturing defect. We discovered sending a new starter to Fiji is equivalent to purchasing a round trip ticket. We were left searching truck graveyards of Fiji.

Breakdowns are not uncommon in Suva. One not need look far to see wrecks and remains of boats around the harbor. The frequent sinking of boats and close calls discussed over Fiji Bitters at the Royal Suva Yacht Club were a strong omen to leave. One of our friends, Troutbridge, hit the reef coming in the Suva harbor. His boat was stuck on the reef for over two weeks. We departed shortly thereafter.

All mishaps aside, Suva is a fun city. The people stop you in the street just to talk to you, and there are a lot of great bars and clubs. We made many friends quickly and enjoyed the simplicity of the Fijian lifestyle. We were picked up by a couple cute Fijian girls at a bar and found ourselves playing squash at the university and learning local agricultural techniques for fish and prawn farming. Tired of the rain, we picked up the anchor to head over to the Western side for some sun.

Fiji

The trip to Fiji provided a nice variety of wind, squalls and calm sunny days. We had a full crew including Mike Foley and our little Brother, Tyler. The absence of consistent wind delt a delayed arrival to Fiji unfortunately missing Tyler's flight back to LA. We landed in Suva, the capital of Fiji. The capital is not like the brochures. There are no beaches, blue water or tourists. We spent a couple days at the Royal Suva Yacht club fixing the Tahatsu from her swim a couple weeks prior. We searched for a better location to entertain Liz and Ann Marie who would fly in to meet us in a couple days. Pacific Harbor became an immediate appeal when it advertised the "Adventure Capital of Fiji." We do not typically find ourselves allured by guided tours, however Pacific Harbor became an exception. We geared up in scuba equipment and decended to 70 feet underwater where trained professionals fed giant sharks. The sharks and pelagic fish were incredible. The fish comprised of tuna, trevally, and red snapper frenzy over fish carcass scraps. The sharks on the other hand, are more coy. The larger sharks move slowly with grace and power, like kings of the ocean. They carefully selected their meals and inhaled tuna heads in a single bite. During the dive we saw up to 12 foot bull and lemon sharks. It was an unforgettable experience.

We took a side trip to an isolated beach where Makai could release some energy. Similar to the other islands we attempted sneak her to remote places. This plan never works. Taking Makai to land is like to taking Nemo through an elementary school. Exotic creatures never go unnoticed. She found her peer group quickly and ran around with the kids of a local police officer named Osea. Osea, like many other Fijians, looks and holds himself like a warrior. His interrogation was inquisitive more than threatening and we enjoyed lunch with his family. We quickly became good friends and spent the following day, sitting in a circle eating and drinking kava for hours.

After a couple days in Pacific Harbor we sailed to an island called Beqa. Beqa is known for walking on fire and their supernatural ability to heal burn wounds by touch. It is customary to take Kava to the chief for permission to stay in the village. Although we would sleep in the boat, Kava opens doors. After presenting the Kava, the village decided to throw Mike a birthday party. Mike's Birthday started early with wake boarding under the stars at 3am. Sleep was optional and we all joined the village at a nearby beach for game day. The men provided lunch via spear. The women thatched and made the fire. The kids played and climbed coconut trees. We were encouraged to join the kids and happily obliged, drowning ourselves in coconut water.

The sail back to Suva was difficult with no wind or head winds. Firefox took a detour half way to obtain extra petrol in order to connect Mike with his departure flight. In Suva the plan is to outfit Broken Compass for a successful 40 day trek over to Bali.