Saturday, March 17, 2012

African Animals





We were welcomed to Africa by my mother and little Brother Tyler, who arrived the morning we pulled into the Durban Marina. These two are accustomed to the fast American lifestyle, so we rented a car and tore through the country. Our destination: Kruger National Park. Kruger Park is a game reserve where tourists can witness the most magnificent creatures in Africa. We spent 5 days with a surprisingly professional group called Tydon Safari's. We were privileged to see the big 5. Along with their prestige as the 5 most dangerous animals in Africa to hunt, they are also presented on the South African currency (the rand). The animals are far better looking than old presidents on our greenbacks. Back on the reserve, we stalked Cape buffalo, tracked leopards and parked several feet from a lioness. It is a surreal experience staring into the eyes of a lion. Cats possess the most amazing eyes with the hint of evil intentions. The coolest animal was the wild dog. They appear to be playful, however, they possess the ability devour an impala (antelope) in a 2 minutes! The pictures are compliments of Tyler.

Durban:
We have discovered the best way to meet an array of people is to frequent the local pubs. Africa however is a different story. In traveling to a pub after sunset you are likely to be robbed, stabbed or killed. All three are not uncommon. We have come to believe South Africa under reports international statistics of crime rates. It is battle for life everyday on the streets. Understanding the danger, we met a local who played for the Nigerian national basketball team at moderately safe pub. A couple days later he invited us for a tour. The bar he took us to had a cage to protect the bartender from the patrons. Walking into the bar we were surveyed like a lion stalking an duiker. Half the men had drinks, presumably the other half could not afford them. There were two pool tables in the small room and fortunately, Bret and I are no strangers to the game. We treated the game similar to a prison economy. Win enough from the prisoners to pay off the guards. In this case, the guards were the big dudes and the prisoners were the small dudes. The bribes were paid from winnings of a bottle of dark stout. After a couple games, the lions were getting restless. A brawl ensued when one of the larger guards challenged the small white guy (Bret) to a fight. Bret diplomatically altered the challenge it to a wrestling match. The 'white man's' rules were simple: first person to the floor, no weapons. Bret applied a standard wrestling move. A front headlock. The jaws of the crowd dropped with the man's face which Bret skillfully recovered inches from the floor. The man, seemingly to have witnessed a miracle that such a small white man could subdue figure of his stature; forged two additional attacks. These attempts met identical outcomes. Cashing in our chips while we were ahead, we departed the bar unscathed.
As previously mentioned... Africa is a dangerous place. The coastline is no exception. Stories of ships lost, wrecked and capsized are as frequent as Nantucket during the whale trade. Our weather man informed us no yachts had wrecked or capsized this year. This year is an exception. We carefully prepared Broken Compass for the 750 mile stretch to Capetown. Our inspection report coupled with a promising weather window kept us in Durban for an extra month. Attempting our third scheduled departure, we are off to Capetown. We previously had the luxury of pulling into one of the safe harbors on the coast. Unfortunately we are pressed for time. We have a friend scheduled to arrive 10 days hence in Capetown. Of course we will pull over warranting ferocious weather, but schedules push limits and we will put the ship and crew to the test. Pray for wind and mild seas.