Tahiti

We arrived in Tahiti after breaking sailing records on the Broken Compass. We traveled 280 miles in 45 hours. We kept up with a far superior catamaran called Hasta la Vista for the passage and they generously towed us into the harbor in return for freediving 65 feet to save their anchor in Manihi. Tahiti truly is a paradise. Despite the boat traffic and booming industry, the harbor boasts clear water and 50 foot visibility. We dove two boat wrecks and a plane crash site blanketed by small reef fish. We have been enjoying the luxuries of a real city and spending time with the crew on Mega Yachts has expanded our repertoire of toys. There is a shoal with 3 feet of water where boats gather on a daily basis to play music, games and enjoy sunsets called the sand bar. Makai is quarantined from stepping on land, but the sand bar is her oyster. She is the most popular dog on the reef and she introduced us to dozens of new people. Included in these introductions were professional Heiva dancers. Tahiti demonstrates strong customs and traditions. One of the more noticeable customs is that the local girls do not wear the same amount of clothing that we have become accustom to on the beaches in the United States. So combine topless girls, professional dancers, music on the water and you have a party. Besides dancing with half naked girls and hanging out on mega yachts, Tahiti is a nice town with good restaurants and friendly people. Typical fashion: Girls wear pearls and guys wear tattoos. Walking around, we are surrounded by friends from other yachts exploring the same tourist attractions and chandleries. After the arrival of another new propeller and parts, and with a little love our outboard engine is running smoothly again. We have seen the sun set over the island of Moorea for almost two weeks now and we are headed there next.

Casual Heros

Our image of paradise was balanced when we noticed a formation of dark clouds looming over the horizon the second afternoon in the atoll. The wind gradually picked up to 25 knots by the evening of the second day. All three sailboats in the atoll took firm hold to coral heads scattered in the anchorage. One catamaran named Troutbridge did not weather the storm like the rest. At 8pm they popped their anchor. With the captain enjoying drinks the other boat, an able Kiwi crew member fired up the engine and motored off the reef. Returning promptly, Captain Pete re-anchored and started bailing the rising water from his boat. After a bilge pump failure he needed help. We arrived with a spare electric bilge pump to a terrified crew furiously bailing with buckets. I set up the bilge pump while Bret found the leak and kept the water level manageable. We left the boat that night outsourcing the remaining bailing to the bilge. Several large holes were identified the following morning. The leak had been isolated to the starboard hull which breached through a faulty containment hatch. We were recruited by the local talent to complete the job spending hours underwater re-shaping and mending the dilapidated vessel. During this process, another boat named Imagine could not release their anchor from the coral. Despite enjoying the spectacle (keep in mind, salty old captains do not accept help quickly), Bret and I offered assistance by diving 50ft and untangling a mess of chain to set them free. After the repairs our friends are currently headed to Tahiti to survey the damage.

(Makai also helped out by marking the coral heads for Troutbridge on their way out of the atoll.)

We wish them good luck and safe travels.

Manihi

Manihi (written 6-28-2010)
The 500 mile jump from Nuku Hiva to the Tuamotu islands went smoothly, highlighted by pods of melon-headed whales, a surprise 50 knot squall one night, and a 22 lb yellowfin tuna. On the 5th morning, we reached the atoll of Manihi. Knowing the dangers of entering a coral atoll under sail, we hailed others on the radio for current and tidal information. After realizing we were without a motor, they advised we do not enter the narrow pass due to the strong currents. On a different channel we heard other yachtsmen refer to us as “Foolhardy.” Undeterred, we did a drive by to scope out the obstacle keeping us for our destined paradise. By this time, two captains from the anchorage arrived in a dinghy to help save the fools trying to enter the pass under sail. With two undergraduate degrees in finance on board and well aware of the concept of risk management (or so we think) we tacked towards the 130 foot wide pass. We hugged the starboard side of the channel, and with the boost of a short weather system coming through, threaded the pass into the turquoise waters within.Manihi is more than we could have dreamed. Coral heads with tropical fish are scattered throughout the lagoon. The 400 residents are friendly, welcoming, and overly generous. Our first morning, we received two loaves of bread. Armed with the concept that guests should not pay for food, the locals send boats out to deliver meals of fish, coconuts, rice, and dishes I cannot identify. They invite us to picnics on the beach and children’s dance shows where 5-year-olds shake their hips and they all wear ornaments made from real flowers. A local farmer took us oyster diving and walked us through the black pearl cultivation process. He then took us fishing and we learned Manihi fishing practices catching two grouper and letting a reef shark off the line. Their ability to spearfish is impressive to say the least. Leaving Chad and I feeling like air breathers, the Polynesians dive over 100ft in one breath to wait patiently for fish to swim past their hungry spears.Our neighboring sailboats are off to Tahiti today, but we plan to stay for another week or so to learn more about life on the atoll. It is difficult to pull ourselves away from the wonderful people, clear water, and fish not yet caught. Oh yeah... I forgot to mention: French Polynesia was the best place in the world to see the eclipse. Broken Compass luck? Or great planning?