Manihi (written 6-28-2010)
The 500 mile jump from Nuku Hiva to the Tuamotu islands went smoothly, highlighted by pods of melon-headed whales, a surprise 50 knot squall one night, and a 22 lb yellowfin tuna.
On the 5th morning, we reached the atoll of Manihi. Knowing the dangers of entering a coral atoll under sail, we hailed others on the radio for current and tidal information. After realizing we were without a motor, they advised we do not enter the narrow pass due to the strong currents. On a different channel we heard other yachtsmen refer to us as “Foolhardy.” Undeterred, we did a drive by to scope out the obstacle keeping us for our destined paradise. By this time, two captains from the anchorage arrived in a dinghy to help save the fools trying to enter the pass under sail. With two undergraduate degrees in finance on board and well aware of the concept of risk management (or so we think) we tacked towards the 130 foot wide pass. We hugged the starboard side of the channel, and with the boost of a short weather system coming through, threaded the pass into the turquoise waters within.Manihi is more than we could have dreamed. Coral heads with tropical fish are scattered throughout the lagoon. The 400 residents are friendly, welcoming, and overly generous. Our first morning, we received two loaves of bread. Armed with the concept that guests should not pay for food, the locals send boats out to deliver meals of fish, coconuts, rice, and dishes I cannot identify. They invite us to picnics on the beach and children’s dance shows where 5-year-olds shake their hips and they all wear ornaments made from real flowers. A local farmer took us oyster diving and walked us through the black pearl cultivation process.
He then took us fishing and we learned Manihi fishing practices catching two grouper and letting a reef shark off the line. Their ability to spearfish is impressive to say the least. Leaving Chad and I feeling like air breathers, the Polynesians dive over 100ft in one breath to wait patiently for fish to swim past their hungry spears.Our neighboring sailboats are off to Tahiti today, but we plan to stay for another week or so to learn more about life on the atoll. It is difficult to pull ourselves away from the wonderful people, clear water, and fish not yet caught. Oh yeah... I forgot to mention: French Polynesia was the best place in the world to see the eclipse. Broken Compass luck? Or great planning?
The 500 mile jump from Nuku Hiva to the Tuamotu islands went smoothly, highlighted by pods of melon-headed whales, a surprise 50 knot squall one night, and a 22 lb yellowfin tuna.
On the 5th morning, we reached the atoll of Manihi. Knowing the dangers of entering a coral atoll under sail, we hailed others on the radio for current and tidal information. After realizing we were without a motor, they advised we do not enter the narrow pass due to the strong currents. On a different channel we heard other yachtsmen refer to us as “Foolhardy.” Undeterred, we did a drive by to scope out the obstacle keeping us for our destined paradise. By this time, two captains from the anchorage arrived in a dinghy to help save the fools trying to enter the pass under sail. With two undergraduate degrees in finance on board and well aware of the concept of risk management (or so we think) we tacked towards the 130 foot wide pass. We hugged the starboard side of the channel, and with the boost of a short weather system coming through, threaded the pass into the turquoise waters within.Manihi is more than we could have dreamed. Coral heads with tropical fish are scattered throughout the lagoon. The 400 residents are friendly, welcoming, and overly generous. Our first morning, we received two loaves of bread. Armed with the concept that guests should not pay for food, the locals send boats out to deliver meals of fish, coconuts, rice, and dishes I cannot identify. They invite us to picnics on the beach and children’s dance shows where 5-year-olds shake their hips and they all wear ornaments made from real flowers. A local farmer took us oyster diving and walked us through the black pearl cultivation process. He then took us fishing and we learned Manihi fishing practices catching two grouper and letting a reef shark off the line. Their ability to spearfish is impressive to say the least. Leaving Chad and I feeling like air breathers, the Polynesians dive over 100ft in one breath to wait patiently for fish to swim past their hungry spears.Our neighboring sailboats are off to Tahiti today, but we plan to stay for another week or so to learn more about life on the atoll. It is difficult to pull ourselves away from the wonderful people, clear water, and fish not yet caught. Oh yeah... I forgot to mention: French Polynesia was the best place in the world to see the eclipse. Broken Compass luck? Or great planning?
Hey guys! Thanks so much for writing about your voyage! It's very inspirational and fascinating to read! Makai is adorable! The website is great. Love the pics. Hope a new engine makes it's way into your hands soon!
ReplyDeleteBest,
Kelsey Frey
Perhaps when you are done sailing with the World's oceans, you will turn to writing books of the amazing experiences you have (much better than a drinking game book). Your writing is captivating...almost as much as your story.
ReplyDeleteLove you guys!
-Sheila