After leaving from Bora Bora we decided to stop at an island along the way. We had heard of an isolated atoll called Suwarrow. Famously described in Tom Neale's book "An Island to Oneself," the atoll appealed to the secluded live off the land lifestyle we had been seeking. Currently two rangers manage the area, which is now a territory of New Zealand. We pulled into the anchorage to see several familiar yachts, friends, and two big men placed to oversee the island. Apii and James are not your typical park rangers. 
They were placed 6 months prior for a 9 month contract to survive, prevent poaching, and collect dues from visiting yachts. They take people out spearfishing and organize potlucks for all of the visiting yachts.
They were placed 6 months prior for a 9 month contract to survive, prevent poaching, and collect dues from visiting yachts. They take people out spearfishing and organize potlucks for all of the visiting yachts. With plans of a two day visit, we ended up spending two weeks. Survival on an island like Suwarrow is not difficult. There are coconuts, coconut crabs, lobster and every type of fish imaginable. We took group coconut crab and lobster hunting trips. Thick brush, swarms of wasps, and big claws protect the delicious coconut crabs. The lucky few returned with hunting souvenirs from the wasps...
At least the hunters were able to eat an incredible meal... 
Apii taught many survival skills and we taught him a little something about spearfishing. He knew the same man, Fernando Faura whom we had spent three weeks with in Manihi (nearly 1500 miles away) learning how to spearfish. In Fernando's prime, he was one of the best divers and spearfisherman renowned throughout French Polynesia. Life in Suwarrow is simple but rewarding. With a friend from a boat called Nikita, we established a bridge club on the island to pass by squally afternoons. We went spearfishing when we needed food. Similar to a seafood menu, we had our choice of any fish we cared for but never took more than we could eat. 
The visibily of the water ranged from 60-100 feet and we reached new depths diving. The only threat were the sharks who always attacked the opportunity for a free meal or wounded fish on a spear. Sharks including white and black tip reef sharks along with greys generally ranging from 3-6 feet long. I counted 12 sharks surrounding our boat one afternoon after catching a trevally on rod and reel. 
Afternoons and evenings were typically spend trading stories and thoughts about sailing and life. One evening while planning a potluck, Apii decided we should go for lobster on the other side of the reef (4 miles away). We had to time the tide correctly, so the best time to hunt would be midnight. We set up camp including a tarp to sleep on and a pot spread on two rocks over a firepit. We watched the stars under a clear sky and waited until the tide went out, leaving the boat up on the rocks. We hunted tide pools armed with headlights, gloves and one machette. The gloves were for the spiny lobster and the machette was used for fish sleeping in the pools. Our take for the night was 25 lobster (3 nearly 2 feet long), 4 parrotfish, 3 grouper, 3 squirel fish, and 1 red snapper. We cooked 5 lobster for the two of us back at the campsite at 2am and contributed the remaining take for a party the following night. Suwarrow is a magical island, but one can't stay in paradise forever. We are off to give Broken Compass a little love in Pago Pago, American Samoa and see if she can ride out the cyclone season.
At least the hunters were able to eat an incredible meal... Apii taught many survival skills and we taught him a little something about spearfishing. He knew the same man, Fernando Faura whom we had spent three weeks with in Manihi (nearly 1500 miles away) learning how to spearfish. In Fernando's prime, he was one of the best divers and spearfisherman renowned throughout French Polynesia. Life in Suwarrow is simple but rewarding. With a friend from a boat called Nikita, we established a bridge club on the island to pass by squally afternoons. We went spearfishing when we needed food. Similar to a seafood menu, we had our choice of any fish we cared for but never took more than we could eat. The visibily of the water ranged from 60-100 feet and we reached new depths diving. The only threat were the sharks who always attacked the opportunity for a free meal or wounded fish on a spear. Sharks including white and black tip reef sharks along with greys generally ranging from 3-6 feet long. I counted 12 sharks surrounding our boat one afternoon after catching a trevally on rod and reel. Afternoons and evenings were typically spend trading stories and thoughts about sailing and life. One evening while planning a potluck, Apii decided we should go for lobster on the other side of the reef (4 miles away). We had to time the tide correctly, so the best time to hunt would be midnight. We set up camp including a tarp to sleep on and a pot spread on two rocks over a firepit. We watched the stars under a clear sky and waited until the tide went out, leaving the boat up on the rocks. We hunted tide pools armed with headlights, gloves and one machette. The gloves were for the spiny lobster and the machette was used for fish sleeping in the pools. Our take for the night was 25 lobster (3 nearly 2 feet long), 4 parrotfish, 3 grouper, 3 squirel fish, and 1 red snapper. We cooked 5 lobster for the two of us back at the campsite at 2am and contributed the remaining take for a party the following night. Suwarrow is a magical island, but one can't stay in paradise forever. We are off to give Broken Compass a little love in Pago Pago, American Samoa and see if she can ride out the cyclone season.
Please enjoy your stay here in Pago. Try Cost-U-Less and K2 mart for shopping. They have everything (feta and kalamata for example)
ReplyDeleteMake sure you do the NPS rainforest hiking trails
From Pago,
JW