Farewell to Pago Pago

Bret headed back on a whirlwind US and Mexico tour as Makai and I manned the boat. The "rainy season" is aptly named, but did not deter several excursions and island tours. Two palangi teine's (white girls) named Christin and Alice were companions and tour guides for the island. We went kayaking in Pala Lagoon, a marshland that looks as though it was transplanted from the Florida everglades. There is a beautiful hike and protected area called Palangi beach on the west side with a good break for surfing. “Sliding Rocks” has tidal pools where we lounged for hours drinking Vailima (local beer) until sunset.

We caught barracuda, trevally, tuna, and a native worm called Pololo. Pololo is the caviar of Samoa. They emerge one night every year from the coral to be caught by eager fishermen. I took a couple trips on a local samoan boat. The harvest was poor this year, but it didn't slow down the laughter and drinking, which continues well into the morning.

There is a bar/dance club called Oceans which opened across the street from the Marina. The managers, E and Vanessa, are the kindest samoans I met “on island.” I spent several nights exchanging stories and learning Samoan traditions, business, and political practices on the island. Another friend and qualified mechanic helped install the engine we shipped from Minnesota. The engine was damaged in transit and we ended up building the current one from scratch (or just the short block). As we leave Samoa for Tonga the engine still does not work (we just shipped a new starter). We are pressed for time to meet a friend from Norway who is flying to Tonga to for Christmas. So we will leave for Tonga in typical Broken Compass fashion... 325 miles, No engine, no wind, no autopilot and one week until Christmas. Pray for wind!