Tonga Sail

We rode down to Tonga on a string of squalls. Each dark grouping of clouds came with mixed feelings. Without them we made almost no headway due to lack of wind. Unfortunately wind's buddy, Rain, always tagged along for the ride. Beyond the constant adjustments of the sails, it is typically not bad sailing three days with wet weather. The challenge came when there was a noxious leak below the cabin. We quickly became nauseous and couldn't figure whether it was a propane leak, fuel leak, or a punctured can of paint, epoxy, or resin in the v-berth. Concerned about propane, Chad closed the valves. Unable to ventilate the cabin due to the continuous rain, we didn't have hot food for two days. Cold, wet, and sleepless, the cabin became an attractive alternative until 15 minutes later we retreated to the rain with pounding headaches. Once I came back out and vomited over the railing ranting that I was not seasick (for record's sake) and cursed our toxic cabin.

We had no natural concept of time for three days as the dark clouds covered both moon and sun. On day four, the rain resided, the sun emerged, and the wind died. We were able to open the hatches and found our three day nemesis, a half-gallon sized can of acetone lay empty under scores of ropes, tools and sails in the v-berth. It never felt so good with no wind at sea. 20 miles north of Vavau island, wearing dry clothes, eating hot food, and playing backgammon in the sun was bliss.

The next day we were hit head on with a 40+ knot squall as we tacked up into the island group. Entering the Neiafu harbor, our friend, Elisabeth, who had flown from Norway called on the radio. After her three days of flights to Tonga traveling half way across the world, somehow the South Pacific winds brought us to the same place within 15 minutes of each other. Talk about timing!