Long Leg to El Salvador

We left La Cruz the morning of December 2nd and were blessed with strong easterly winds out of the Bay of Banderas. The next few days were painfully slow as we averaged about 35 miles a day. I felt like strapping on a harness and towing the 18 ton vessel to gain some extra mileage on the windless days. A race proposal for one person to run on land to Costa Rica while the other person sailed was made, but never materialized. As if the sea chose to answer our calling for wind, we were hit by a squall on day 4. With no other structure on the water, lightning is attracted to a boat at sea like birds flocking to a fishing trawler. The winds gave us a few quick lessons on how to handle the Broken Compass in rough weather, and we all came out unscathed. With built up confidence, and falling behind our scheduled arrival to Costa Rica, we decided to roll the dice with the tehuantepeckers. The Gulf of Tehuantepec is infamous for heavy weather and with average weather conditions at Force 6 on the Beaufort scale, tehuantepeckers are known to push cruisers out to sea some 500 miles. Avoiding all advice from books and other cruisers was the best thing we could have done.

We saw more wildlife, caught more fish, and had more wind than we had at any other place in Mexico. Dolphins, flying fish, squid, turtles, and whales frequented the boat as the big eye tuna kept the reels screaming and provided for some of the best sashimi we have ever had. A 100+ lb sea monster tested our fishing tackle. It was an epic battle before we realized we had snagged a turtle, and quickly released her from the line. At night, entertainment was found surfing down waves as 30 knot winds allowed us to make some good headway.



The night after crossing the gulf (Day 11), we had our usual cocktail for sunset and polished off the rest of a slender tuna caught that morning. Keeping a distance of around 25 miles offshore, a low flying plane with no lights flew directly overhead. Heading northwest, it was more than likely on its way to deliver drugs to Mexico.

We just pulled into the small town of Jiquilisco on the coast of El Salvador. The area is rich with fisherman and tropical plants and animals. Sandwiched between the ocean and a mountain range, the isolated area is the type of place you could see yourself staying for a few years. A pilot helped navigate the sandbars and currents through the mouth of the bay. We thought we were making decent speed until we realized 4 knots of it was the current coming in the other direction. I’m sure it is quite common, but watching the pilot (in a speedy panga) slow down for us as we chugged along at 1 knot for 4 hours was kind of humorous.

Some pics of tuna and subsequent meal below: